![]() Once those were moved, I could attach the header to the top plate and king studs with more screws, and then I could flip the whole wall around to add the bottom plate. This wasn’t a huge deal, as I was going to be building the doors myself anyway, so rather than remake another header, I just moved the king studs in an inch and a half on each side and moved along with assembly. It was at this point that I realized I had cut my header too short, as I had cut it to the exact width of the door opening, when it needed to be 3 inches wider than the door opening. With that done, I could get the front wall assembled, initially adding the two corner studs and the two king studs. I made sure to mark out these locations on the top and bottom plate, and I like to mark J and K at these locations to indicate these are where the king and jack studs are located. Step 8: Construct Proper Framework Around Shed Door With Header, King Stud and Jack Stud ![]() Instead of buying 2x3s, I ripped down 2x8s, which are made of a much sturdier Southern Yellow Pine, and these 2x3s should be plenty strong for this kind of structure.Īlso, you might notice the stud spacing is a little different on these side walls, and that’s so the studs line up with the vertical grooves in the siding panels I’m going to be using later. ![]() We’re going to be storing our trash cans in this shed, and that extra two inches of floor space widthwise inside the shed were a necessity if we wanted to fit all three of our trash cans in comfortably. Once the back wall was assembled, I moved on to the side walls, and I actually built these out of 2x3s rather than 2x4s. With the studs in place, I could get the wall assembled, and I again used 3 inch screws here, but I only needed two screws per connection with these 2x4s.Īlso, I should mention that I spaced this shed off of my house about 15 inches, and I definitely wouldn’t build a structure like this any closer, as assembly got really tricky as things like the roof framing moved closer to the house as the build continued. I repeated this process at the other three corners, and unfortunately one of these rim joists had a decent amount of twist to it, so I had to fight it a bit.Įventually, I got it assembled and then I could go back and add all of the inside floor joists using the same method. I lined up the first floor joist with the corner of the rim joist, making sure it was in line with the line I had added on the inside face of the rim joist, and then drove in the screws, making any necessary adjustments with a hammer between adding each screw. ![]() Next, I cut the floor joists to size at the miter saw, making sure they were all the exact same size, and then I could assemble the floor framing. Last, I partially drove in three 3 inch screws in each corner of the rim joists, so that I could have both hands free when assembling the floor. I also like to transfer my lines to the inside faces of these boards on wider boards like this, to help keep my floor joists square to the rim joists during assembly. This again avoids confusion during construction, but it also keeps you from having to mark both sides of each stud location, which saves time. Another common practice is to mark out where one side of the stud will go and then mark an X on the side of the line where the stud should be placed.
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